Through Great Smoky Mountains National Park

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John's Journal

Day Seventeen

Mileage- 276

Route- Hwy 154 South, Hwy 52 East, Hwy 27 South, Hwy 62 East, Hwy 162 (or was it 262?) South, Hwy 129 South, Hwy 321 North, South on the main drag through the Smoky Mountains, Blue Ridge Parkway East or North (whichever it is)

I finally stopped in somewhere and asked if I could use a phone line. The guy, Charlie knows exactly what I need. Another guy was in there not too long ago and needed to do some e-mail and he hooked him up. So, I am now up-to-date.

The ride to the Smokys (that's the way they spell it, honest) was real nice. I took the 2 lane roads just about the entire way. The weather once again was perfect, but slightly cool. The roads went though some great small towns that looked just like the same ones I used to ride through in Indiana. It?s really amazing to me that the terrain surrounding these towns can be so different, yet the towns themselves can be so similar.

As I approached the Smokys, I saw many more motorcycles. There is a great sense of camaraderie among motorcyclists and I felt part of their trip, too as we passed and waved. Most all were going the other direction, though. Hmmm, did they know something I didn't?

I managed to completely miss the circus-like atmosphere of coming to the Smokys through Gatlinburg. Darn, I missed seeing Dollywood! I ended up coming in the western edge of the park which was less traveled and snaked alongside a beautiful river. Spectacular!

I caught up with the Blue Ridge Parkway just near the end of the park (photo taken by entrance sign). You could almost miss the entrance if the sign wasn't there because the road looks like just another small 2-lane road. It is very well maintained, though. It was about 4pm when I got on and even though the sun was still up, the air was quite chilly. Due mostly to the elevation. I passed the highest point on the Parkway at 6,047 feet.

The speed limit on the Parkway is 45mph the whole way. The corners were almost all able to be done at speed, since they were just big, sweeping ones. Perfect for a motorcycle. Mom wouldn't like the fact that there was not much of any guardrails around most corners, but I didn't mind. Some parts I had to go real slow just so I could look out at the acres and acres of trees. Wow!

Are you the kind to stop at Scenic Overlooks? Well, you might have to miss a few on this road, there are ones about every 1/2 mile. No joke, it's amazing. But, of course each one offers a spectacular view of the area. At one stop I met a couple from the German part of Switzerland. They were about 25 years old and were having a great time. He has a Yahama FZ650 back home and wished he could be riding that over here. They were heading down to New Orleans so I passed along the brochure for the wonderful B? we I stayed in (the McKendrick-Breaux House (504-586-1700).

Around 6pm or so, I came around the corner upon the Mount Pisgah Inn, restaurant, store and campground. Originally part of the Biltmore Estate, it is was among the first places where sustainable forestry was practiced (from "Road Trip USA" by Jamie Jensen). I decided that this was the spot for the night, I only had to figure out whether I was going to be a wimp and get a room or be a real "Leather Man" and camp out. I overheard that the rooms were $70/night (but man, each room had an unbelievable view), I opted to freeze to death (no, not really, but it was cold).

I walked over to the restaurant for dinner and was seated by Tatyana, from near Moscow. I spoke a few words in Russian and she seemed happy to hear even those few badly spoken words. Dinner also had a spectacular view and not bad food, wine and actually pretty cheap. My waitress, Joanne, seemed like a pretty cool individual, moved around the country a few places, she said and ended up working here. The staff works and lives up here, the boss takes out around $200 for rent. And you have all these trails and amazing backyard to play around in. They had a sign up for more help wanted, hmmm, maybe I could sublet my apartment and, naw, I have more miles to go.

The campsites were nice; level with enough dirt to put the stakes in (it was windy), a fire pit with partial grill (as if I was going to cook) and since only one other person was there, I had the pick of the litter. I tossed and turned most of the night, from the cold, I guess. I still feel as though I got some sleep, though. It is always sort of eerie being the only one at a campground. I tried in vain to light a fire, all there was around for wood was slightly damp or too green, all I had was smoke. Bummer. So I just gazed up at the MILLIONS of stars overhead and went to sleep.